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traditional weaving meets contemporary design

What is the front, and what is the back, when each exists only in the presence of the other?
Perhaps the difference is but a perspective, and their true essence lies in equality — inseparable halves of a shared whole, defined not by dominance, but by their unity. 

About

ABUOT

The name "URA" (裏), meaning "back" or "inside," was chosen to reflect multiple layers of inspiration. Historically, Fujiyoshida’s most famous textiles were used as liners—the hidden parts of garments, symbolising an unseen yet essential element. Geographically, the region is often referred to as the “URA” of Mt. Fuji, being located on its lesser-seen side. Lastly, the name pays homage to the intricate, hidden craftsmanship and processes that take place behind the scenes in textile production. This project introduces the work of local weavers to a global audience, facilitating collaborations between international designers and Fujiyoshida’s artisans. By bringing these hidden processes to the forefront, we aim to foster a deeper appreciation for the creativity and dedication of the artisans, while inspiring designers with the immense potential of these crafted details.--Together, we explore innovative applications for these delicately woven textiles, blending the unique characteristics of each weaver’s craft with the distinctive visions of invited designers. --Our mission is to celebrate and sustain the rich heritage of Fujiyoshida’s textile industry while showcasing its exceptional capabilities to the world. Through the URA Project, we aim to highlight the beauty of what lies beneath, behind, and within—unlocking endless possibilities for the future of design.

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yamanashi

Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi: A Land of Woven History

At the foot of Mount Fuji, Yamanashi Prefecture boasts a rich textile tradition, woven into the very fabric of its history. The region’s beautiful scenery and abundant water resources provided the perfect conditions for silk production and weaving. Situated on the ‘Ura’ (backside) of Mount Fuji, Fujiyoshida’s unique location presented both challenges and opportunities for its textile industry. The town’s location, altitude, and distance from major water bodies or transportation routes shaped its textile industry, which became renowned for its exceptionally high-quality, lightweight fabrics. These textiles, easily transported by horseback and valuable even in small quantities, led to the development of intricate techniques using extremely fine yarns, such as silk, to produce the highest quality lightweight fabrics. Generations of skilled artisans in “hataya” weaving shops meticulously crafted this high-quality silk, passing down their time- honored techniques and artistic vision. The town’s textile designs reflect a fascinating blend of indigenous Japanese aesthetics and influences from the West, particularly those brought by Dutch traders along the Silk Road. These historical exchanges form the roots of a shared cultural thread between the Dutch and the Japanese under Mount Fuji, dating back hundreds of years. While embracing modern innovations, Fujiyoshida has always valued its traditional weaving methods. Today, efforts are underway to preserve and celebrate this rich heritage. Events like “Fuji Textile Week” highlight the work of contemporary artisans and encourage the use of locally produced fabrics. Partnerships with designers help bring traditional textiles into the modern world. Join us to discover the timeless beauty of Fujiyoshida’s textiles and support the artisans who continue to weave this rich heritage into the future.

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weavers

THE WEAVERS

For the URA project of 2025, we have worked together with Funakubo Textile, Tenjin Factory, Watashou Textile, Maeda Gen Shoten, Makita Shoten and Watanabe Textile. These are all local weavers in Fujiyoshida. Get to know the stories of the artisans: their history and their unique techniques. 

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Watashou Textile

Watasho Textile is a factory specializing in necktie fabrics that has been in business in Fujiyoshida for 75 years. In the early days, the company wove fabrics for futons, nightgowns, cushions, and kimonos for dolls. The techniques of making dense, heavy textiles with fine yarns were later transferred to the production of necktie fabrics. Today, the company focuses on orders for factory brands and also on nationwide peddling sales.One feature of Jacquard weaving is that the expression is different on the front and back. Neckties often have a motif pattern, and the color inserts to make a single point stand out on the front side, while the back side shows lines of the insert threads that did not appear on the front side. Watasho Textile continues to seek new ways of utilizing both sides of the fabric, which cannot be expressed in the product of a necktie.

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Funakubo Textile

Established in 1924, Funakubo Textile has been a master of various fabrics and patterns, particularly renowned for umbrella fabrics. Masaru Funakubo, the third generation, is a craftsman of "hogushi-ori"—a method employed by only two companies in Japan. Originating from India's Ikat, this technique was later transferred to Japan and France but only endures in the former.  "Hogushi-ori" is characterized by removing the weft threads after dyeing the warp threads, untangling the threads, and weaving them back together. This results in blurred patterns with a sense of depth. Changing the color of the weft offers various expressions. Funakubo Textile is set to preserve and advance this unique technique.

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Tenjin Factory

Tenjin Factory has been manufacturing textiles for over 70 years at the foot of Mt. Fuji. Using shuttle looms, which are rarely seen today, the company utilizes its long-established techniques to produce linen fabrics designed to fit in with the lifestyle of the Japanese. The first and second generations were primarily engaged in the production of silk fabrics, but from the third generation led by Shinji Kobayashi, the company shifted to the production of linen fabrics. Linen is said to have less impact on the natural ecosystem and less soil pollution, because the fiber is obtained from the stem and no flowers or leaves are used. Therefore, Tenjin Factory chose this material in order to produce fabrics that are environmentally friendly and harmonize with daily life.

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Watanabe Textile

Watanabe Textile is led by Tatsuyasu Watanabe, the third generation of the company. With architecture, photography, and art as his creative background, Tatsuyasu pursues new possibilities in textiles, focusing on natural materials, and handles everything from design to weaving himself. The factory is developing unique fabrics by weaving together various natural materials such as wool and Japanese paper, with a focus on cupra, a recycled fiber made from the hair of cotton seeds, which is now widely used in this region. Watanabe Textile presented original textile artworks at FUJI TEXTILE WEEK in 2021 and 2022, and continues to challenge unique approaches, such as creating patterns by needle punching on layered threads and fabric.

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Maeda Gen Shoten

Founded in 1921, GEN MAEDA & Co., Ltd.(Maeda Gen Shoten) boasts a 100-year history. Having produced a diverse range of fabrics, including umbrellas and women's clothing, the company transitioned to organic cotton in the 1990s. This shift aimed to promote the exceptional qualities and potential of organic cotton, a material untreated by pesticides. Despite initial challenges, such as limited awareness and high prices, the company persevered, leveraging a century-long legacy of high technology in fabric manufacturing. Today, Maeda Gen Shoten continues to sell organic cotton fabrics, and also offers original products that prioritize environmental and user well-being.

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Makita Shoten 

Founded in 1866 during the late Edo period, Makita Shoten is the only traditional textile factory in the world that can handle the entire umbrella production process, from weaving fabric to assembling umbrellas. All of the umbrellas made by Makita Shoten use woven fabric. By combining textile techniques developed for clothing with umbrella production, they create umbrellas that are unique in design. The intricate patterns and bold designs are made using threads dyed with snowmelt from Mount Fuji, creating vibrant colors. The high-density fabric allows for detailed designs, a three-dimensional effect, and a beautiful gloss, making the umbrellas even more attractive. To create umbrellas in various sizes based on customer needs, the fabric is carefully cut according to wooden molds for each part. The assembly, including sewing and crafting the handle, is done entirely by skilled artisans. Since all processes are completed in-house, even if the fabric gets damaged, artisans can repair it by hand.

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team

TEAM AND SUPPORTERS 

Collaborators

TENJIN Co.,Ltd

Funakubo Orimono

Gen Maeda & Co., Ltd.

KAIKIZA Co., Ltd.

Makita Shoten Co., Ltd.

Marukou Sangyou Co., Ltd.

Nakamura Shoji Co., Ltd.

Watanabe Textile

Watashou Orimono

Yamanashi Industrial Technology Center, Fuji Technical Support Center

Yamanashi Prefectural University, Professor Takashi

Designers

Mae Engelgeer

Raw Color 

Photography

Noam Levinger

Go Itami 

 

Exhibition Design 

Sander Wassink

 

Press

Dailypress Naoko Takegata

 

Support by 

Fujiyoshida City Chamber of Commerce and Industry

Yamanashi Prefecture Industrial Policy Division

Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands

URA team 

Director, Coordinator: Tsuyoshi Yagi / DOSO Inc.

Creative Director: Arieh Rosen

Project Manager, Consultant: Yoriko Ishizawa

Assistant Coordinator: Misuzu Kamoshida

Assistant Coordinator: Aya Bergkamp

contact

CONTACT

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